The first thing that should be considered is exactly WHAT you intend to load. Steel? Lead? Bismuth? TSS? Hevi? The possibilities are virtually endless. Lead is arguably the most forgiving ammunition and may be loaded across a wide array of various machines. Steel and other non-toxic waterfowl loads, on the other hand, are a bit more exacting. For loading no-tox waterfowl loads, it is generally recommended that one use a single-stage press, so that's where we shall begin.
There are a multitude of makes and styles of shotshell reloading presses, so lets start with the simple before we move to the complicated. Single-stage presses are designed to make one shell at a time. Regardless of the make or model, a hull is placed in a depriming station and the primer is knocked from the hull. The second station re-primes the hull. Next, typically, the shell is placed below a powder tube or combination powder/shot tube and powder is dropped into the hull. A wad (or "shotcup") is then inserted and shot is dropped into the shotcup. Finally, there will be a two-stage crimp process that finishes the shell. Pictured below is a MEC "Steelmaster" single-stage reloading press.
The process for loading lead is fairly self-explainatory. One simply advances a hull around to the stations, pulling the handle and following the directions. Until, that is, the hull reaches the final two stations of the press, which is where things tend to get dicey. Good crimps are an artistic thing of beauty. Bad crimps are garbage, and a rightful source of grief and humiliation. In order to correct existing crimp issues, one must make slight adjustments to the precrimp and final crimp stations. Respecting the press pictured above, adjustments may be made to a cam on the final crimp station to open or close the crimps.
A swirl in the petals of a crimp indicate that the crimp is too tight. The existence of such a swirl means that the final crimp station cam should be adjusted up slightly, and on the pictured machine that means loosening the allen screw on the cam and moving the cam up slightly before re-tightning. On the other hand, the existence of a hole in the crimp indicates that more cam pressure should be applied to close the crimp, and in that instance the cam should be adjusted downward slightly. The process is largely a matter of trial and error, but with some time it becomes quite simple to feel one's way through the necessary adjustments to make factory-like crimps.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT HULL
Hull selection for beginners can be a somewhat arduous task. The process would be much less confusing if each manufacturer of hulls made only one style within a given length. Unfortunately, it simply doesn't work that way. However, given that we are working with canister propellants that will be discharged mere inches from our hands and faces, it is EXTREMELY important to be able to identify specific hulls and to understand their properties. Let's begin with trap hulls.
Trap hulls come in two general varieties: tapered hulls and straight-walled hulls. The most popular and notorious among the tapered hulls are made by Remington and Winchester. Winchester's famous AA tapered hulls were the clear favorite amongst reloaders for decades. Known as "compression-formed" AA's, these hulls were extremely tough and very ameinable to reloading. In recent years, however, Winchester has transitioned to the new AA "HS", or "high-strength". It is generally considered to be common knowledge among reloading enthusiasts that the new AAHS hulls are garbage. The second most common tapered hull is the Remington Gun Club/STS/Nitro hull, and it is largly favored by trap shooters today.
It is important to note that tapered-wall hulls have significantly less capacity than do straight-walled or "Reifenhauser" type hulls. Because the capacity of a hull has a direct and immediate impact upon the pressure generated upon detonation, one must be extraordinarily cautious to avoid confusing one shell type with another. Federal and Cheddite are among the more popular manufacturers of straight-walled or "Reifenhauser" type hulls. To make matters more confusing, one should be aware that both Remington and Winchester manufacture both straight and tapered-wall hulls. As a general rule, high-brass shells made by Remington and Winchester will be straight-walled, whereas low-brass shells made by Remington and Winchester will be tapered.
Now, to add even more confusion to the matter, many of the ammo companies incorporate different basewad heights for the various hulls that they produce. The basewad height is the thickness of the plastic or fiber wad that is placed against the metal head of the shell. The best way to identify basewad heights is by examining the interior of a hull with a flashlight and determining the color of the basewad. For example, remington straight-walled hunting hulls with yellow basewads have a far greater internal capacity than do the same hulls with black basewads. It is of critical importance that the reloader identify the particular hull and basewad that he or she is dealing with to avoid the potential for serious bodily injury or death.
For lead loads, particularly when clays or small game is the intended target, tapered-wall hulls are hard to beat. The most popular Winchester wads and their aftermarket clones are designed specificlly for use in tapered hulls, so it makes sense that the majority of trap shooters and dove hunters would migrate towards tapered hulls. Volumes of data are available for loads consistent with such hulls using a wide variety of components to meet the reloader's individual needs and resources. Remington gun club or STS hulls and Winchester AA hulls are popular and perform very well with lead dove and target loads.
For non-toxic loads, and particularly for steel shot shells, having straight wall hulls is a distinct advantage. Because straight walled hulls possess a capacity that significantly exceeds that available with tapered hulls, they are much more suitable. Steel shotshell loads in tapered hulls are typically limited to one-ounce or less of shot and will run higher pressures than their straight-walled counterparts. Federal Gold Medal, Cheddite, and Remington Nitro-Mag/Sportsman hulls are exceptional for use in no-tox loads, and depending on the basewad height, will generally easily accommodate an eighth of an ounce more shot than will a tapered-wall hull.
Choosing the right hull is the first step towards a good load. Before stepping up to the press, be sure that you can clearly identify the hulls you intend to use.
Choosing the Right Primer
Choosing the right primer is easy: use the one that is suggested by the data for the particular load you're undertaking. Subsituting components is never a good idea. Substituting primers can be horrifying. NEVER DEVIATE FROM RELIABLE, PUBLISHED, LOAD DATA.
The most popular manufacturers of shotshell primers are Federal, Remington, Winchester, Fiocchi, Rio, Cheddite, and Noblesport, and each of those primers have unique individual characteristics. Substitution of a primer for a given load could cause a pressure increase of up to 4,000 p.s.i. Again, subbing primers is a strict "no-no".
Beyond the detonation characteristics, there are also physical characteristics that make primers unique. For instance, Winchester 209's, Federal 209A's, and Remington STS primers are fairly uniformly sized. Cheddite's, Rio's, and Fiocchi's, on the other hand, are larger in diameter. Using an American primer in a French hull, therefore, may cause issues with loose primers. Again, use what the load data calls for.
POWDER SELECTION
Powder selection is yet another complicated but very important aspect in determining the desired load. There are a multitude of powder manufacturers, each with dozens of available powders, which must be considered before diving off into a high-volume powder purchase. The particular load to be crafted will dictate, but for those on a budget, its best to look for powders that are the most useful across the widest number of applications.
For example, Alliant Red Dot powder is an excellent, fast burning, clean 12-gauge powder for target loads between 7/8 oz and 1 1/8 oz. It has NO application for 20 gauge, 28 gauge, or 410 gauge, however. Alliant Green Dot powder, on the other hand, is a medium burn rate powder which is very capable in 1 oz and 1 1/8 oz 12 gauge loads, but can also be applied to some 3/4 oz and 7/8 oz 20 gauge loads. NOTE: It is specifically recommended that Green Dot NOT BE USED in 7/8 oz 20 gauge loads for those using chamber reduction tubes as generated chamber pressures are in excess of recommended operating pressures for such tubes.
For heavy hunting loads, Hodgdon Longshot and Alliant Blue Dot are excellent choices. Each of these powders have potential in both 12 gauge and 20 gauge applications, and there is limited data using either powder for non-toxic waterfowl loads as well. IMR 800X and 4756 are also exceptional heavy load powders.
Without question, the hands-down winner for steel shotshell loads is Alliant Steel powder. The pressure curves generated by steel loads demand a slow-burning powder, and Alliant Steel powder is the ONLY powder designed specifically for such applications.
In summary, the idea is that before components are purchased, the reloader should digest as much information as is possible and determine what loads will work best for his or her purposes. Once done, comparing the components required for such loads will enable the reloader to make informed choices regarding the most appropriate powders available.
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